- keeping with tradition -
a story about the ale apothecary
Paul Arney comes from a lineage deeply rooted in pharmacy. Both sides of his family were pharmacists, with his great-grandfather, C.B. Neihart, establishing Neihart Drug in Coulee City, Washington in the early 1900s. C.B. was a beloved figure in the small town, renowned for his wit and reliability. He even dispensed alcohol prescriptions during prohibition (they’ve adorned their tasting room's bathroom walls with them), while also serving sodas and playing pranks on his regular patrons.
Tragically, C.B. passed away prematurely, prompting his son, Paul Neihart, to step into the family business, setting aside his own aspirations. Alongside his wife Pauline, Paul Neihart continued the legacy of Neihart Drug for years, keeping C.B.'s legacy alive and thriving. Following in his father's footsteps, he transformed the drugstore into the first state-run liquor store in Washington, selling alcohol alongside comic books, balsa wood airplanes, and prescription drugs. The couple eventually retired in the 1980s, leading to the closure of Neihart Drug.
The Ale Apothecary Farmhouse Brewery
While the brewery may not inhabit the same space as the family drug store, its very name honors Paul's familial legacy and history. Tucked away amidst the Deschutes woods of Bend, Oregon, the snug farmhouse brewery finds its home within an aged barn. This setting evokes a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of a bygone era when farmers crafted beers within their barns to preserve for the months ahead. Little did they know, they were unwittingly inoculating their brews with the wild yeast and bacteria drifting through the air.
The Ale Apothecary prides itself on crafting and curating some of Oregon's finest wild and spontaneous beers, using locally sourced ingredients meticulously selected by hand. Originally, the term "Apothecary" referred to a shopkeeper who concocted remedies from herbs and minerals—a tradition that Paul Arney, Owner/Founder of Ale Apothecary in Bend, OR, continues to honor.
Paul is a dynamic and imaginative individual, radiating an infectious energy that draws you into conversations spanning diverse topics from music theory to locally foraged ingredients found in your bioregion. Embracing a wide array of interests keeps his mind agile and inquisitive, infusing vibrancy into the ever-unfolding landscape of his pursuits.
His knowledge speaks to a true mastery and passion he has for his craft this industry and the style of beer they produce. With an artisan's touch, each brew reflects not only his expertise but also his deep connection to the land and community around him. The ethos of the Apothecary extends beyond mere brewing; it's about nurturing relationships, preserving tradition, and fostering innovation in every pour. As the journey from family pharmacies to the brewery comes full circle, it's evident that the spirit of entrepreneurship and dedication to quality craftsmanship run deep in the Arney lineage.
The taproom is an exquisite artistic haven, adorned with paintings reminiscent of organisms in steampunk forms, their vibrant, flashy colors splashed across the walls. Steampunk sculptures crafted from steel are strategically positioned throughout the space, many capable of springing to life with a mere flick of a switch. Among our favorites is an installation showcasing top crop yeast prints, arranged like tapestries along the brewery wall. These prints capture the diverse fermentation patterns imprinted on muslin cloth during the lively transformation of yeast—a captivating portrayal of beer's vibrant essence.
Every corner of the taproom pulses with creative energy and inspiration. Amidst this artistic symphony, the gleaming silver taps behind the bar beckon. Ale Apothecary harnesses the untamed power of nature, utilizing beer as a medium to craft some of the most intricate, intriguing, and satisfying wild and spontaneous brews on the market.
While the realm of wild ale and spontaneous fermentation beer steadily expands, it remains a niche within the broader craft beer economy. Encouraging people to venture beyond their comfort zones and delve into the rich history encapsulated within these beer styles can be challenging. Yet, it is precisely this allure of the unconventional that captivates us.
Paul's vision centers on creating beer intimately linked to nature, prioritizing practices and ingredients that resonate with the ethos he and the Ale Apothecary team hold dear. Though utilizing rustic methods and foraged ingredients may be time-intensive, it is a testament to their dedication—a labor of love that infuses each brew with depth and character, offering patrons a richer, more immersive experience.
If there were a beer that perfectly encapsulated the essence of Ale Apothecary, it would undoubtedly be Sahati. This brew represents our interpretation of the traditional Finnish sahti, steeped in history and crafted with meticulous care.
To create Sahati, we embarked on a journey back in time, utilizing a 200-year-old Engelmann spruce tree sourced from our brewery grounds. From this venerable tree, we fashioned our kuurna—a hand-carved vessel reminiscent of a canoe—reviving the ancient Scandinavian tradition of the lauter tun. Within this kuurna, the magic unfolds as we separate wort from grain during brewing.
Lined with spruce branches, the kuurna acts as more than just a vessel; it's a conduit for nature's essence. The needles of the spruce branches serve as a natural filter, infusing the wort with resinous oils. Meanwhile, the hollowed trunk of the tree imparts a rich spruce essence and raw wood structure to the brew.
Sahati is a harmonious blend of barley and rye malts, complemented by a delicate touch of Goschie Farms Cascade hops. This symphony of ingredients is brewed only a few times each year, a testament to the artisanal approach we uphold at Ale Apothecary.
In Sahati, one can taste not just the flavors of the ingredients, but also the soul of the brewing process. It embodies the ethos of Ale Apothecary, where complexity and depth emerge not only from the ingredients themselves but also from the ancient methods we employ. With Sahati, every sip is a journey through time and tradition, a celebration of craftsmanship and innovation.
With an unmistakable reverence and a penchant for storytelling, Ale Apothecary's curated liquid cures beckon us to embark on an introspective journey. They prompt us to ponder the origins of these traditions and styles: who were the artisans who safeguarded these practices through the ages? What significance did these libations hold for the cultures that birthed them?
For me, delving into the history of beer has always been an exercise in fascination. It's akin to unraveling a tapestry of human ingenuity, woven across the fabric of human history as a whole. Despite the passage of time, I feel two fundamental truths about beer endure. Firstly, its essence is deeply intertwined with the earth, each sip is a testament to the bountiful gifts it gives us. Secondly, beer transcends mere refreshment; it's a communal offering, a libation shared in celebration of life's myriad moments, from the joyous to the solemn.
Reflecting on these timeless principles leaves me in a state of reverent awe at the depth of human experience and the resilience of a collective cultural heritage. At Ale Apothecary, each project is imbued with a profound sense of homage to the past. We strive not only to revive ancient traditions but also to infuse them with new vitality and relevance.
Indeed, it's a privilege to partake in this journey, to bear witness to history reborn in every sip. Each brew serves as a conduit to the past, a tangible link to the generations who came before us. In honoring their legacy, we honor the rich tapestry of human endeavor and the enduring spirit of innovation that continues to shape our world.
As with the inexorable passage of time, change becomes an ever-present companion, the sole constant in life's journey. In a recent podcast recording, Paul discussed the introduction of new, cleaner brews aimed at attracting a broader clientele to the taproom. This shift sought to strike an equilibrium, expanding Ale Apothecary's reach without compromising its foundational principles. While Paul expressed enthusiasm for this new venture, he also hinted at his characteristic approach: "I'll continue until the passion fades. That's been my modus operandi with past projects and interests. It doesn't signify a loss of love for brewing; rather, it signals the dawn of a new chapter in this ongoing adventure."
Now, as of May 7th, 2024, The Ale Apothecary is up for sale—a poignant testament to the inevitability of change. While this development may evoke a sense of sadness, it's a reality inherent to life and the dynamic craft beer industry. Trends shift, demographics evolve, and businesses rise and fall with the tides of consumer preferences. Nonetheless, Ale Apothecary remains steadfast in upholding its values and ethos. With Paul and Connor Currie, the current Brewer, at the helm, they are committed to guiding the next custodians of the brewery, imparting the essence of what it means to craft beer in the Ale Apothecary tradition.
It's difficult not to feel a tinge of melancholy at this news, having encountered so many remarkable individuals within the industry. One can't help but root for their success, yearning for others to witness and embrace the passion and dedication they embody. Whether it's the satisfaction of mashing in, the clarity of filtration, or the camaraderie shared over pints of their beer, each moment encapsulates the essence of joy and fulfillment.
As Paul embarks on his next adventure, we extend our heartfelt wishes for his success and fulfillment. May this new chapter be as exhilarating and rewarding as the inception of The Ale Apothecary. And to those who chance upon a bottle of The Ale Apothecary in a shop, I urge you to indulge. Share it with friends, savor the stories woven into each label, and revel in the libations and conversations that ensue—a tribute to the enduring legacy of Ale Apothecary.
All images showcased in this article have been employed with explicit permission from Thru The Sightglass and The Ale Apothecary who retain the copyrights for these images.